Archived from The Control Center, 2000. Hardware, prices and links are historical.

Zykon Joyrider 4-in-1 part 2

Setup:

Setting up the JoyRider Pro is not too difficult. There is some minor assembly involved but you should get accustom to it for the mode changes. Decals are provided to stick on the base. One provides indicators for the mode switch and the others are purely cosmetic- mocking altimeters, fuel gauges, a compass, etc..

The physical modifications that can be made between modes revolve around the wheel. The wheel can be locked into place along its shaft. You can adjust its distance from the base for comfort. This adjustment can also be left unlocked to allow yoke control when in the proper mode. This is all done with a knob on top of the base.

The other adjustment to modify the wheel between motorcycle, yoke and wheel mode is a bit trickier. The top section of the wheel pulls out of the center shaft when unlocked from the remaining handles. With this section removed and the shaft set allowing free movement the controller is set in yoke mode. By twisting the upper handles of the yoke downward and locking them into place you now have a motorcycle controller. Of course each of these modes must be set with the proper toggle on the base switch also.

Under Windows the JoyRider Profiler installs easily. As you can see from the image above it shows configuration screen once installed. The configuration screen is the easiest method to use for setup although you can go directly to the game controller applet if you wish. By selecting the desired mode you want to operate in you will be shown what position the switch should be in. You will notice there are 6 selections but the JoyRider offers 7 configurations. The car and motorcycle setups use the same profile but the controller is physically different.

After selecting the mode in the profiler, arranging the controller in the right setup and setting the switch to the proper mode the calibration button will bring you to the Windows game controller applet for calibration. As always, run the controller through the calibration steps and check the setup before exiting for proper function.

Performance:

General

The JoyRider Pro has some shortcomings. The pedals have a very short throw and are too close together. They are essentially foot buttons; not offering much accuracy or control. When used as rudder pedals they do not give the accuracy needed for a cross wind landing or helicopter control. They are slightly better for racing but still have the same problem. The other overall problem with the JoyRider is there are too few buttons and they are scattered. In the different modes of operation the active button move to different locations (may be on the stick, base or wheel). The throttle lever is also very small.

Yoke with throttle and rudder controls

This mode is intended for civilian aircraft sims. In this mode the yoke, throttle lever, rudder pedals and 4 buttons are active. As I have already said the pedals offer poor rudder control and the throttle is too small. The theory of good control is there but in practice flight control is average at best.

Yoke with hat switch and rudder controls

Similar to the previous mode in performance. The throttle control is lost and replaced with the use of the 4 way hat switch located on the joystick portion of the controller. Flight control in this mode is poor. Throttle control is necessary for good flight and using the keyboard is not a good option.

Car with gas and brake

This is the JoyRider Pros best implemented mode. Still, the controller is best for simple race sims and not complex racers with weapons and other features since you only have 4 buttons to use. The pedals took some stomping but don't offer accuracy.

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